1 Was By Sea, 2 Was By Land - Calibirdication Day 10

Summon out the rain clouds
Someone should hear how loud we sing
Blinded by the notion
Of fog in an ocean, all around
Oh Monterey
How can I say
I'll always stay
And slip away

Today's birding was planned around birding the Monterey vicinity, and visiting the world famous aquarium. We started out by heading to the Esplanade Park, where Lisa had scouted an eburd spot for us to hit. On the way we passed a small pond and got Pied-billed Grebe, a nice get for the day.

This park was a few blocks of greenery in the center of the road between the quaint houses that make up Pacific Grove. It was quite nice to walk around the neighborhood and find birds in the park and in the yards of the houses as well. 

Nuttall's Woodpecker was a save for the trip, and it didn't hurt that it cooperated nicely. Another nice bird here was Townsend's Warbler, as well as Yellow Warbler. We saw more of the usual suspects and then moved over to the rocky shoreline and walked our way towards Asilomar. 

Arlene and I mused over the rugged beauty of the shoreline and compared it to Maine's coast while Lisa in her typically overly enthusiastic deportment mentioned that she wanted to find Black Oystercatchers. I said: 'gimme a minute'.

I think it took six minutes, but find one I did, and then two more. Striking bird, nice lifer for Arlene. And then in the same vicinity I spotted Marbled Godwit, and Surf Bird: the latter so named because its call sounds like "gnarly dude". 

Hidden a bit but visible nonetheless was a Wandering Tattler which afforded us much better looks than the first one we had at the start of the trip, and Black-bellied Plover.The later was much more photographically cooperative than the aforementioned.

Black-bellied Plover

A short distance down was a pond where we watched the distinguished looking Heerman's Gulls bathe.

Heerman's Gulls

When we were satisfied with our birding in these locations, it was suggested that we go to the Aquarium as had been planned because of strong desire to see Sea Otters, and the fact that its one heck of an aquarium.

Having seen otters in the wild very well on this trip, and noting that it was mid-day on a Sunday with teeming masses probable, Arlene and I declined because we did not feel like dealing with the crowds. We dropped Lisa off at the Aquarium, and thought lunch and a brew at the Alvarado Street Brewery was a better idea for us.

Having walked past it a few times it had called to us like a siren. A siren with beer. How could we resist? OMG was it such a pleasure. Arlene and I sat outside while enjoying a tasty lunch, some exceptionally tasty beer, and relaxed - something we had not really had the opportunity to do on this trip. That was by design, "bird til you drop" you know...

Cookies and Creme

"Inspired by the wave of Golden Milk Stouts some of our favorite breweries are making, we decided to replicate Oreo Cookies in beer form, with a luscious, milkshake-like texture on nitro. Ample amounts of Dutch cocoa, Madagascar bourbon vanilla beans & Ecuadorian cacao nibs coupled with minimal bitterness and a rich, toasty malt base, this beer is ice cream in a glass."

We had luxuriated and relaxed, and when we were summoned by Lisa who had completed her visit to the aquarium, we collected her and headed off on more exploration.

Our first stop was Fort Ord, an impromptu stop. We had a nice walk and got good looks at Pyghatch, Spohee, Bewicks and House Wren and Chestnut-backed Chickadee before continuing on to Moon Glow again.

This visit was far more productive, as we arrived much earlier than previously but... We got great looks at multiple White-tailed Kites, much differently colored Red-tailed Hawks. Red-shouldered Hawks, Harrier, and Merlin rounded out the raptors, and we added American Goldfinch for the trip. 

We also met the owner of the property who stopped to check in on us. He was very affable, and happy that we had traveled from the east coast to visit his farm. The bad news for us was that he said that the best way to see the Tri-colored Blackbirds was in the morning. We had missed them again, and for the trip. Doh! Oh well, better luck next time, but a wonderful visit to Monterey and vicinity nonetheless.

Moby Tick, Or The White Wagtail

Picture of the picture on Earic's camera

It all began when I arrived home and got a text from Mike Zino’s Petrel. I had not heard about any new rarities so when he asked if I was going to Rye, I presumed he meant for the Virginia’s Warbler in Westchester, NY. He did not. He sent me a screen shot of the news from the alert. Wow!

White Wagtail was not on my radar, and I thought it would be a life bird. It turns out I had seen it back in 1979 in Israel, so this would still be a bird for my ABA list and a neat bird that I had not seen in many years.

Mike though inquisitive was also tentative: long drive, rain, blah blah blah.  I was piqued. I read the reports and reached out to old friend Steve Strickland’s Woodpecker from up that way. The reports were not 100% encouraging, but encouraging enough. For me anyway. The White Wagtail was discovered by birder Josh Gahagan at Ragged Neck on 11-2. It lingered most of the day of discovery for lots of folks to see it.

I next began the all important task of grabbing a posse. No. Can’t. Can’t. No. Finally Earic Miller was interested, so things were looking up. A call to avIan Resnick gave the usual I’m interested but have to work tomorrow response. However, after much coercion I was surprised that eventually I was successful in convincing him that this was much needed debauchery. With others on board I suggested that Mike reconsider and he came aboard. I have a posse comitatus!

The weather forecast was of the sucky variety. I told avIan and reminded Earic that on the last twitch to NH the conditions were forecast to be similar. We met early in the am and got on our way.  The weather was holding on during our travel, and I checked the lists periodically for updates.
 

Dreary, but at least not raining and the foliage was nice

At 7Am the report was no sightings yet. I bit my tongue and do not tell the others. At 9am  the report was its been relocated! By 10am we made it to New Hampshire and made a pit stop at the welcome center.

While maneuvering into a parking spot we saw a man walk by who we looked at and looked at us. Do you know him? someone asked. I replied “no, but he looks like a birder, then again, most peoples apparel in New Hampshire makes them look like birders”.

Guess what: not only was he a birder, but none other than Donald Stokes of the field guide fame. He and his wife were on the way to the bird too.

What do you mean by 'where is the squirrel'

Inside, we had to squelch a moosogeny attempt by Mike, who was transfixed by the display. “Look at the snout on that thing - I must touch it!” “Come on Mike, we have to go” we said as we dragged him back to the car kicking and screaming....
Along the final stretch and on the lawn of a quintessentially New England home we saw some Turkeys  and arrived to a crowd of other birders at Rye Harbor Park by 10:30.  The word? No bird, but no rain so there was at least that. 

The bird had been relocated earlier in the day a short distance south of its original location by Steve, off Straw Point’s private property. After getting permission for people to visit, the bird flew off with only a couple of people seeing it. Dang!

Conferring with Steve now, most of us stayed where we were and birded this park while others tried to relocate the bird in areas not publicly accessible. Good thing, because as promised it began to rain. This was not so bad for us as there was a picnic shelter to stand under and a surprising number of good birds to look at while we hoped to find the intended target as well.

We saw Black-bellied Plover, Bonapate’s Gull, lots of Snow Buntings, several Common Eider, Common and Red-throated Loon, Surf and White-winged Scoter but also a late lingering Pectoral Sandpiper, and Ipswitch Sparrow. Even better was Red-necked Grebe, Western Grebe and an immature Black Guillemot.

We maintained hope that it would be relocated by at least one pair of the myriad eyes present. In the crowd of birders it was nice to recognize and greet Sam Millerbird who I had met previously also in New Hampshire, also at a good bird: a Redwing, and also in the rain.

Eventually I got a call from Steve that the bird had been relocated! The birders present were alerted and we made our way by following a local who knew the area so we caravanned it to Great Boar's Head some 7 miles away and 2.5hrs after the first sighting that day. What good birding detective work!!

We arrived and parked, but another birder was heading back to his car explaining that the bird had just split headed south a bit more. Double-dang! We continued down the road a little, parked, and tried scanning. Earic and Mike headed back north, while Ian and I looked from near where we parked.

After 10 minutes or so, Earic who had wandered back away, called me and relayed that a bunch of birders further on had just started running back towards the beach! I ran that way, as did Ian, and a bit out of breath we finally got to the sea wall where the crowd was either oohing and ahhing, or saying ‘where is it’? Of all the skills needed to bird, it amazes me how many folks still have not mastered how to relay the location of a bird to others.

To begin with, Do NOT say ‘straight ahead’. EVERYTHING you look at is straight ahead of you! Do NOT say ‘in the tree’, chances are there are a lot of trees where you are if you are birding. Instead select a ~distinct~ landmark; something that is unique to orient others to where you are looking. Then say come forward, left, right etc of that object. If it is a tree, start as before to get the correct tree then use the clock method- 9 o’clock... 3 feet in and towards the back etc.

Of course its nice to get a photo too. That’s made a whole lot easier if you have your camera at hand. Doh! Ian volunteered to go back to the car and drive over. Unfortunately by the time he got back the bird had flown off yet again.

It flew quite a distance, and looked for all intents and purposes that it was gone. Photo-less were Ian and I, but Mike and Eric had gotten some. I need one of those bridge cameras that don’t weigh a ton like my beast.

Wow. Great bird! I thanked Steve for being so diligent in making sure people knew about this bird, and when he pointed out Jeanne-Marie Mash-Harrier, the person who had relocated it here. I thanked her as well. She had stopped here because she thought it was good habitat. Then she heard it call! Way to go Jeanne-Marie! And well deserved of the thank you hug I gave her.

We were all understandably happy with our splendid views of this rarity, and upon its departure, we sought out comestibles. Petey’s was recommended, and with libations on tap and lobster on the menu who could argue with the choice? Most of us enjoyed a lobstah roll with a celebratory Guinness (or two).



 

Da boiz be chimpin

After lunch we made a brief attempt at a Western Kingbird 2 miles up the road at another beach, but dipped on that. Oh well, no complaints here, and it was time to hit the road.

The ride home was devoid of rain and traffic and with our return at a good hour, a most pleasant conclusion to another epic journey. ABA #717!


                         For a video of the bird click here.

Albatross, Albatross, Get your Albatross - Calibirdication Day 9

The people came and birded.
Some of them came and played
Others gave flowers away, yes they did
Down in Monterey,
Down in Monterey.

Albatross! Albatross!

We awoke after a very restful sleep. Staying at the Days Inn afforded us ease of access to the dock where our pelagic would be departing. We went on foot and perused the nearby restaurants and such. We had great anticipation of this our second pelagic of the trip, which was egged on by the message below From Alvaro, the trip leader. We had to be the first ones to the dock.

    Hello all,
   
        Conditions are forecast to be relatively calm, low winds and low waves on Saturday. It will be neat to see what is out there in these conditions, which make it easier to see small birds like storm-petrels and murrelets. As well, it is a great situation to find whales, so we have a nice weather setup. We hope that the calm conditions also allow for good photography! There may be patchy fog, but hopefully that will not last for long...

At the dock we got our first goodies. A Sea Otter was floating under the nearby structure and munching on Pelagic Crabs, and the latter were floating just under the surface. They look like shell-less hermit crabs, and are related to them. Large numbers of them have been in the area and this happens from time to time. It is said that they are related to warm water and skew the normally cold water fish further north.

Sea Otter enjoying breakfast

Pelagic Crab

Lisa as well as everyone else I'm sure, was pleased to see this cute beast. Lisa had this creature high on her desire list so she was hoping to be able to see one. And there it was within a few feet, exuding cuteness. Also at the dock were Barn Swallows, swooping right past us. Not what I expected here but hey. Of course as we motored out we got the expected stuff: Black Turnstone, Brandt's Cormorant, Brown Pelican,  Heermann's Gull, Common Murre, on the very populated jetty.

Brant's Cormorants and California Sea Lions

Black Turnstone

Common Murre disgusted by the slacker Sea Lions

Great Egret hunting on a kelp forest's canopy

Too dam cute

Once we were out on the water, of course we had  Black-vented Shearwater and California Gull, but also Pomarine, Long-tailed, and Parasitic Jaeger.

Ever the elusive bunch, we did see a few Cassin's Auklets and Rhinoceros Auklets.

Rhinoceros Auklet

Rhinoceros Auklet

Risso's Dolphin

The ocean conditions were sublime

'Common' Murre is an appropriate name here abouts

Sooty Shearwaters

Yeah, the ocean conditions didn't suck!

A special highlight was a flock, yes a ~flock~ of Albatross'. We came upon a research vessel with them queued up behind it, and we were able to stop nearby and observe. It was not to long before the Albatross' noticed us and swam over! 

Albatross! Albatross!

I'll Take Two

What flavor is it?

Flavor? Albatross!

 

Do you get wafers with it?

Sheesh, next you'll be asking for Gannet on a stick

It was so calm, that Common Terns and Elegant Turns were loafing on strands of bull kelp way out off shore.

Common and Elegant Tern

But surely the unique conditions were the most memorable, as throughout the day the birds were mirrored in the surface of the water so the looks at the Fulmar weren't too shabby.

Northern Fulmar with multiple reflections!

Red-necked Phalaropes reflected

Red-necked Phalaropes reflected

Red-necked Phalaropes resting

Northern Fulmar

Of course there was other amazing sightings along the way that involved creatures that inhabit the other side of the waters surface.

Humpback Whale

Krill being chased by fish

Krill leaping out of the water in a frenzy

We drifted over to the commotion and as we approached we could not only see them but hear the splashing of the jumping krill, see the fish that were chasing them, and even catch wiffs of  distinct krill odor. Wow! We even heard the krill scream; they said: save us Shrimpke!, But there was nothing Lisa could do. And then the whales swallowed them. {the fish and krill, but not Lisa }

the whales gulped down

The sun never came out, but this sunfish, or Mola Mola did.

 

Blue Whales are huge!

Lest you think the bird show stopped, it didn't. Sabines Gulls in all stages of plumage became more and more numerous and gave goods looks as did some of the other birds we hoped to get good looks at.

Sabine's Gull

Pink-footed Shearwater

Cassin's Auklet

Yes! Finally a good look at and a photo of this elusive though not particularly rare auklet. But alas all things come to an end and we motored back to port; though the gifts came coming right up to our approaching the dock.

A Pigeon Guillemot was feeding its young most confidingly.

Pigeon Guillemot

Young Guillemot trying to swallow a skulpin

Arriving at the dock we decided to make the most of remaining daylight, because that’s what daylight is for, and headed up to the Elkhorn Slough area. A pit-stop at a farm stand was nice for a snack of battered deep fried artichoke. Yum!

We followed the road that took us all around this inlet / estuary otherwise known as a slough, and it was picturesque, but not entirely obvious where folks stopped to bird.

So we followed directions and headed towards the eburd hotspot Lisa had found in preparation for this trip. Definitely a good resource, but not a complete one. I prefer to use the ABA 'Lane' guides, which give a lot more information beside what has been seen there recently.

Important stuff like driving directions, access, hours, days closed, fees etc. It really sucks to get somewhere and finding out that it is closed, or in this case that the sign says private property do not enter...

I had tried to look up some info on the Moon Glow Dairy prior to the trip but nothing specific did I find. After looking at the map and the hotspot location I figured we must be in the right place sign or not. 

A very pleasant get was a Golden Eagle on Dolan Road. We entered the dairy mindful that it was a working farm and tried to stay out of the way. We saw lots more birds such as Savannah Sparrows, Killdeer, and by the cattle we had Brown-headed Cowbird, Brewer's Blackbird, and Red-winged Blackbird...? 

This place was supposed to be -the- place for Tricolored Blackbird, but the views were furtive and we, and especially I, did not hear them sing or call. The birds sound so different from one another that had they vocalized we would have been certain of the ID. 

We headed down towards the water view where we saw a lot of good stuff. White Pelican, Kingfisher, Snegret, Black Phoebe, Americoot, and heard Great Horned Owl.

My should have been favorite bird here was the Chickadees we had in the Eucalyptus trees, as they were a trip bird. Having spent so much time in the mountains I reflexively blurted out Mountain Chickadee. Lisa rapidly pointed out that in this location we should be getting Chestnut-backed Chickadees, and she was correct. Much to her delight. Much much to her delight; as she savored pointing out I was incorrect and then enjoined Arlene to taunted me mercilessly. My plaintive cries that they look the same from underneath went unheeded. "We're not in the mountains" they rebuked. Golly. All day out on the ocean and dulled by Dramamine { which I took though it was thoroughly unnecessary } and not a sliver of sympathy. 

Chestnut-backed Chickadee

One of the last birds we saw here was a very secretive Wilson's Warbler. It was in a dense shrub so getting good looks was tough, but we finally saw its yarmulke and cinched the ID. 

With light fading we decided to try Moss Landing, and did nicely there. Western Grebe is always a nice sight, as well as White-crowned Sparrow. And much to Lisa's delight we saw more Otters floating in the water. She was even more delighted when I misidentified them as Wolverines. Will the taunting ever stop?

Donner? Party Of Three? - Calibirdication Day 8

Friday August 26

Early mornings in the shadow of the mountains and with a little bit of elevation makes for a chilly start to the day. Very chilly, like mid 40's. But we managed and as soon as the sun’s rays hit us we were bathed in warmth. It was still cold in the shade though. We started the day on Old Mammoth Road where the chill made for a slow start for the birdies, but we were there waiting for them.

Juncos were flitting about the hillside but mostly in the shadows which made it hard to tell what they were. They were joined by Goldfinches, House Wrens, and Steller’s Jay. Hermit and then Townsend’s warbler showed up, and showed well as well. Well, well, well! I would have been disappointed if we did not get a TOSO, so I was glad we spotted one. Lifer for the goils. Clark’s Nutcracker put in an appearance, as did Pine Grosbeak and Cassin’s Finch. But a surprise came in the way of Red-breasted Sapsucker that responded to the calls of Williamson’s we were hoping to find. Nice any way you slice it.

It was a beautiful location, but those familiar with “warbler neck” will understand why birding very tall trees was less than optimal, so after a good stretch we moved on to Mono Lake.

Our first stop was South Tufa which we found was already quite populated. Stopping along the dirt road leading there was often an exercise in eating the dust of those who were in a rush to get in or out. Nevertheless we got nice looks at Sagebrush Sparrow and a flock of fly-by Pinyon Jays. Mind you I have not seen them often, so having them fly by with an unobstructed view was not too shabby. And that’s the way it goes. Sometimes you are besides yourself with killer views; other times not so much. But hey, if it was always easy it would not be nearly as fun nor would one exclaim when it was better than expected. 

We moved over to the adjacent and less populated Navy Beach and got killer looks { see, it ~can~ happen } at Sage Thrashers. In the water were California Gulls, Eared Grebes, and on the islands Osprey.

We returned to give Rich’s Rosy-finch place another try and found some interesting obsidian outcroppings but alas, no finch. We then headed to Bodie Road.

The road was through dry desert habitat once again, and with the heat building I was doubtful of what we might find. At a ‘hotspot’ pullout we discovered it was a hotspot due to an unexpected water feature. Many birds were coming down to avail themselves of this rare resource, and we got more nice birds. Brewer’s Sparrow was abundant and a good get and lifer for the goils, as was a Rock Wren that started out playing hide and seek with us before it began to vogue.

Green-tailed Towhee and Western Bluebird made an appearance, the latter threw us at first because it was a young bird so we tried to turn it into a Mountain Bluebird. For Mountain Bluebird we continued on to Bodie.

Bodie is an honest to goodness ‘ghost town’ that is managed as a state park. One can look through the windows of shops and homes to see the items left there by the people that abandoned the town after the gold rush that brought them there, had petered out.

We walked the town a bit; it was interesting to think this place was quite developed while being so very remote. But beyond this we were here to bird and walked about hoping for our two targets: Mountain Bluebird and Greater Sage Grouse.

After some time spent without luck, I spied a park ranger and inquired of her. She was a twenty something typical Californian. She told us that we could find the Mountain Bluebirds off to one side of the town, and that the Grouse were usually up the hill, near where she lived.

I inquired: “You live here?” To which this young lady replied “Yes.” So I further asked: “Are you a ghost?” She looked at me with a dead-pan expressionless face and said in a monotone: “That’s Silly.” That in and of itself was worth the price of admission.

Of course we thanked her and headed off to find these birds. The Bluebirds were just where she said they would be and they cooperated nicely. The Grouse were a bit more secretive, though we found them by walking some of the minor trails and found them feeding in the grass.  

Greater Sage Grouse

Greater Sage Grouse

Many grouse species are found by happenstance, like when they are crossing the road, or by timing a visit to a known lek. Thankfully, these birds remain faithful to this location. The town of Bodie itself is remote, but once here I have always succeeded in getting this bird. The goils enjoyed them.

After this we walked the town a bit more, and while passing a flock of blackbirds that one would otherwise dismiss as more of the omnipresent Brewer’s Blackbirds, I picked out an immature Yellow-headed Blackbird. This was a good save as it was the only one we had the whole trip. It was listed in many locations we visited, but at this time of the year they had finished breeding and had dispersed. Yes!

Ahead of us was a long trip. We had to get over the eastern sierra mountains and get to the coast. When we got back to the main highway, we gained cell service and a check of the map gave us information we wanted. With the 100th NPS anniversary, we anticipated that traffic through Yosmite would be atrocious, and cause of much delay. What the map told us was that we could make it through via the Sonora pass and avoid lollygagging visitors. No one wants to rush through Yosemite, but if you have to be somewhere, that’s different, and we would be going nowhere fast.

Heading north from Bodie, we stopped in Bridgeport for snacks, beverages and a pit stop. We saw gas stations but did not stop. As we continued out of town we passed a large pasture and it was full of hawks, Bald Eagles, and much to our surprise and pleasure, Black-billed Magpies!

It was a beautiful location that we happened upon, but after a goodly time we had to press on to prevent getting to Monterey too late. Of course, heading up a very steep and very windy road labeled 26% grade was not the time to ponder our fuel situation. Concerned, Arlene who was driving asked me about it, and I thought that the just over a quarter tank should be enough to get us to the next town, right?...

Well the road kept climbing and the turns were as sharp as a thumbnail scratch, and that #$^^& gas gauge kept creeping lower faster than it had a right to. Arlene then notified me that the low gas light had come on. I tried to assure her that it was because the road was very steep so that was why, and that when we hit a level stretch it would go out. We did and it didn’t...

I looked at the GPS and saw that the next town was over 20 miles ahead. Would we make it? I told her yes with the best feigned sincerity I cold muster. What she then did was do some of the most skillful hypermiling I have ever witnessed. Slow steady climbing up inclines, minimal use of brakes, and lots of coasting. We passed a sign that said 8000 feet, and I was hopeful that the road would begin to descend. It was at this point that I was beginning to get a big pit in my stomach and felt both very stupid and a bit worried. The latter I did my best to hide as did we all, I think. We didn’t speak a whole lot for quite some time.

The scenery for what its worth was spectacular, and would have been far more enjoyable had our vision not been distorted by adrenaline. With the light having been on for so long, Arlene asked how far it was to the town. 5 miles I said. I kept giving updates on our progress from that point on and noted that the road was consistently descending, a much better state of affairs.

By the time we got down to the within a mile range, we came across what appeared to be a town, but it was just a campground, and our hopes were dashed as there was no fuel station. Continuing on, the GPS said our salvation was nearby, and then not a moment too soon, we saw the “town” of Dardenelle, such as it was.

It was actually a general store, restaurant, and campground. On the far side was a fuel pump! YAY!! Wait, erase those exclamation marks. When we got within reading distance the sheet of paper on the pump said: “No Fuel.” Doh!

WTF?!?  I went into the store to inquire. Nope, we have no fuel. Huh? What? Where is the nearest station? 50 miles back the way we came or 25 ahead. Groan.

Arlene, cool cucumber that she is, remained calm as ever. Lisa was her typical perpetually overexcited self. I told the goils I would handle it and walked off to do my best.

The campground was full of RVers and my thought was that someone ~must~ have a generator and therefore the gas to run it. One after the next I politely inquired if the occupants had any gas they would be willing to sell us. “Nope” was the repeated refrain.

One group of guys that was having a barbecue offered me as much fuel as I wanted as long as I could use diesel. Thanks guys, but our car would not run on that. I continued around from site to site hoping my luck would improve; after all, one gallon would be enough to get us to the next town, if only someone had some to spare...

At this point Lisa joined up with me and inquired if I had had any luck. Yes I replied, but it was all ~bad~ luck. In her typically loud and overexcited voice she made more inquiries of me, such that a very kind gentleman at the nearby campsite overheard her and came over to offer to drive me to town and back to get fuel for our car if we did not have any luck. I thanked him profusely, and told him I would keep trying, and be back if needed.

The goils were thinking of calling AAA but I cautioned that it would be many hours if not a day before they could get to us. I exhausted the campsites, and not wanting to inconvenience this fellow to drive 50 miles out of his way, I went back into the store to plead further. “Excuse me” I said, “but I noticed a gerry can of fuel back by your machinery and was wondering if I could purchase some of that fuel from you, I only need a gallon.” No she said, and then finally suggested that since she just works there, ask the woman in the restaurant.

In the restaurant were two firemen, resting from the overly numerous fires plaguing  the state. They had fuel, but it was premixed with oil for their equipment. Doh! So close. I then spoke with the girl behind the counter, who was more sympathetic than the one in the store. She referred me to the owner who was in the bar.

“Hi. You must be Cindy” I said to the bartender. “What can I do for you” she replied. Well, I have been very stupid and foolish and did not fill up before we headed this way, and with the fuel light on for some time there is no way we will get further or back. I explained how I had inquired of every occupant and had no luck. She looked me over carefully.

She summoned her husband over, they had a hushed conversation, and then he beckoned me to follow him. It seems they did have fuel, but because of the extreme high cost of getting it delivered it was not worth the effort to have it available so they simply put a sign on the pump that said 'no fuel'. Fortunately, they took pity on us. He gave us a few gallons for which we gladly paid handsomely. At first he declined, but I insisted he allow me to thank him for making an exception and going out of his way.

Crisis averted! Not regarding the fuel, but the cannibalism that was sure to ensue if we had actually been stranded. Phew! I wanted to get us all a beer to wash the adrenaline out of my bloodstream, but Arlene pointed out that we still had quite a ways to go. Dang. But as stated before, crisis averted and the experience allowed me to join the hypermiling high club with two goils!

That the rest of the ride was far more relaxed and pleasant was an understatement. When we descended the hills in Oakland, we caught another spectacular sunset. It was dark when we got into Monterey, so we settled in quickly in anticipation of the next day’s adventure, and were thankful that things had not turned out worse.